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I visited the seaside hotel named one of the best in the UK – with direct access to the beach and amazing cocktails

PERCHED at the very edge of a north Devonshire cliff, looking out over the moody Atlantic sea, Watersmeet Hotel is nothing if not dramatic.

From the balcony of my bedroom I can watch the sun set over the water’s horizon, punctured by the craggy silhouette of Lundy Island – it’s undeniably the perfect setting for a romantic break.

a large white house sits on a hill overlooking the ocean
Overlooking the Atlantic, Watersmeet Hotel in Devon has direct access to the beach and amazing cocktails
a balcony with a table and chairs overlooking the ocean
The hotel was named the Best Waterside Hotel for UK and Ireland 2024

The hotel is located in the peaceful seaside town of Woolacombe, with the rugged North Devon coast right on its doorstep.

It’s not just my deluxe room that offers an epic outlook. Whether you’re in a classic, a family or a suite, it’s well worth opting for a sea view of Watersmeet’s very own little cove, Combesgate Beach.

There are steps down to the shore from the hotel but check the time as the beach vanishes according to the changing tide.

When we weren’t cosied up in our robes on the balcony watching the rolling waves, we were taking advantage of the excellent rambling trails at our fingertips.

The 20-minute stroll along craggy paths and grassy heathlands to Morte Point was challenging thanks to steep tracks but very achievable and worth it for the great views.

The peninsula’s name literally means “death point”, as ships and boats used to come a cropper on the rocks hidden beneath the foaming Atlantic.

In 1852, five ships were wrecked across the winter, but this might have been down to infamous thief Elizabeth Berry.

Folklore says that she used to tie lanterns to the tails of horses to tempt boats in.

When they became stranded she would drown the sailors by holding them under water with a pitchfork, before stealing their belongings.

There was no sign of such activity on our ramble, luckily.

Over some heather and broom-covered hills, we soon found ourselves in the village of Mortehoe.

It’s home to an eerie-looking church near the cliffs where thieves were hung as a warning to other would-be crooks.

Luckily, the locals are much friendlier these days, particularly those back at Watersmeet, where we tucked into a well-earned supper.

The hotel was named the Best Waterside Hotel for UK and Ireland 2024 by Conde Nast Johansens and that’s in part down to the cracking food.

Head chef John Cairns joined back in April this year and has transformed the menu into a fine-dining experience.

Starters include a creamy mushroom risotto laced with tarragon oil, and a chicken liver parfait served with hunks of brioche bread.

Hearty mains include a perfectly cooked venison loin and confit pork belly with smoky mash.

If you are feeling fancy, wash each dish down with a wine pairing or a cocktail.

With tables placed next to huge windows overlooking the ocean and the sun twinkling a ruby red as it sets, you would be hard pushed to find a better dinner spot.

GO: WOOLACOMBE

ROOMS at Watersmeet Hotel & Restaurant are from £190 per night (sea-view rooms from £270 per night).

Dinner at the Rocks restaurant from £40 per head.

See watersmeethotel.co.uk or call 01271 870 333.

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Accepting royal gong from King is sickening hypocrisy from passionate republican Jacinda Ardern

FOR most people, getting dressed up in a fancy outfit and heels to be awarded a damehood by the future King of England would be the honour of a lifetime.

And New Zealand’s former prime ­minister Jacinda Ardern did just that this week, smiling broadly and even sharing a giggle with Prince William at Windsor Castle as he made her a dame, pinning the gleaming gong on to her red sash.

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Jacinda Ardern was made a dame this week at Windsor Castle[/caption]
a man in a military uniform is giving a woman a medal
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She shared a giggle with Prince William as he pinned the gleaming gong on to her red sash[/caption]

The one-time leader said she was “incredibly honoured and humbled” and described attending the royal celebration with her family as “a really special day”.

But forget her blue silky frock and new medal.

All I could see was a display of sickening hypocrisy from Ardern, because she is actually a passionate republican who has made it perfectly clear that she wants to do away with the monarchy’s role in New Zealand ­altogether.

Last year when she was offered the award, she said she was conflicted about accepting it.

It may have ­traditionally been offered to former prime ministers for decades but she could easily have tactfully dodged it.

Instead, hypocritical eco-conscious Ardern jetted in to receive one of our ­greatest ­honours, saying: “It will be home that I will be thinking of,” before swiftly heading back there.

Good.

Many politicians in her part of the world are so anti-royal they want to close The Firm down.

And King Charles and Queen Camilla are now feeling the heat on their tour in neighbouring Oz.

The powerful leaders of all six Australian states declined invitations to meet them at a reception in Canberra tomorrow, citing “other commitments” ranging from election campaigns to cabinet meetings.

Before the King landed in Sydney, Chris Minns, the ­premier of New South Wales, said: “I’m a republican.

“But I’m going to treat him as an ­honoured guest in New South Wales, which he genuinely is.

“I hope he has a great time here and I’ll be on my best behaviour.”

Republicans have even been selling T-shirts labelling the royal visit a “farewell tour”.

Monarchists say this snub is insulting — especially to a man who has paused his cancer treatment to be there.

But actually avoiding meeting Charles is less insulting than being two-faced.

Two-faced

Which is exactly what Ardern has been.

She has never shied away from her feelings.

As prime minister she said that her country would become a republic within her lifetime.

So seeing this award being given to her from one of the very royals she wants to oust is galling.

She may be friends with William through his Earthshot Prize but on this occasion he was doing his main job and she was getting one of the UK’s ­highest honours.

It is an honour that she should never have been offered.

Because Ardern loves spouting republican rhetoric with one face while beaming at a royal gong with the other.

Chalcot Crescent – way posher than Paddington?

WHAT a snooty lot the residents of Chalcot Crescent in London’s Primrose Hill must be.

They are kicking off because one of the homes in their street is being transformed into a Paddington Bear-themed Airbnb – because it was used as a backdrop for the movies – and turned into a prize-winning pad.

a row of colorful houses with a no parking sign in front of them
Alamy
What a snooty lot the residents of Chalcot Crescent in London’s Primrose Hill must be[/caption]
a bear is holding a suitcase in front of a palace
PA:Press Association
They are kicking off because one of the homes in their street is being transformed into a Paddington Bear-themed Airbnb[/caption]

Three Paddington fan contest winners will get to stay there. Airbnb is spending two weeks renovating it but has made a £20,000 donation to the local community association.

Residents call it an “invasion”, and say that Paddington is a “tragedy to us” while TikTokers make them feel as though they’re “living in a zoo”. Oh do stop it.

Imagine if they were fans of Freddy Krueger or Chucky.

Paddington was said to find the good in people and make friends wherever he goes.

Maybe they should take a leaf out of his book.

Be kind to poor Cheryl

WHENEVER there is a death that isn’t by the most natural of causes, there is often a blame game, questions and picking over how the person lived their life – and how they died. That is natural.

And this is what is happening right now with Liam Payne.

a woman in a black dress holds a white rose next to a man in a blue suit
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Liam Payne with his ex Cheryl Tweedy[/caption]

But one of the ugliest things that has come from the One Direction star’s passing is the abuse directed towards his ex Cheryl Tweedy.

A quick flick on the internet shows people bashing her for getting together with him when he was 22, because she was ten years older.

As if she had committed some crime.

She didn’t. There are claims that she trapped him into having a baby, although it is clear that he adored that little boy, Bear, who is now seven and has lost his daddy at such a vulnerable age.

All that boy needs to know is that his mummy loved his daddy when he was born, and he always continued to love him.

The trolls would be wise to listen to the words of Liam’s close friend and hairdresser Luke Benson.

He urged people to “be kind” when talking about what may have led to the singer’s death and said Liam was “so kind”.

He added: “Remember he was a son, dad and friend to many.”

Words so true. RIP, Liam.

Chope a dope

WHAT Tory MP Sir Christopher Chope said about Kemi Badenoch this week is disgraceful.

He said he is backing Robert Jenrick to be the new Tory leader because – and wait for it – Kemi has young kids.

Chope said: “You can’t spend all your time with your family at the same time as being Leader of the Opposition.

“Much as I like Kemi, I think she’s preoccupied with her own children, quite understandably.

“But I think Robert’s children are a bit older, and I think that it’s important that whoever leads the Opposition has got an immense amount of time and energy.”

Wow. Welcome back to the 1950s.

I would imagine Sir Christopher is the kind of father who called it “babysitting” when he looked after his.

Bra-vo to Heidi & Leni

HEIDI KLUM has been slammed for posing with her daughter Leni, both in skimpy underwear.

One critic slammed: “Which normal mum would pose together with her daughter in lingerie?”

two women standing next to each other wearing lingerie
The Mega Agency
Heidi Klum has been slammed for posing with her daughter Leni, both in skimpy underwear[/caption]

But Heidi isn’t your average mum. She is a supermodel who has her own lingerie range and Leni, 20, is a model too.

Plus, the undies they are wearing are twice the size of many bikinis.

Another Instagram follower commented: “Am I the only one thinking this is a bit weird?”

What is weird is people having a go at two models – a loving mother and her daughter – enjoying a photoshoot and looking amazing in their undies.

Plus they’re presumably getting paid a fortune for it.

Stinks of jealousy.


MIKE TINDALL says he didn’t have to try very hard to fit into the Royal Family, saying: “They were always nice to me, and I was always nice to them. Simple really.”

Imagine if Meghan had tried that.


Fowlest of play

GOOD on Edward White who took on the police – and won.

Edward runs an animal rescue centre, and he took in a chicken that he spotted wandering on the road and put a picture of the hen online.

Instead of the owners he was hoping to trace, he found the police knocking on his door accusing him of stealing the bird.

(Meanwhile local robbers, shoplifters and burglars were having a right old chuckle).

Cops kept him for four hours, and when they refused to apologise

Edward sued for wrongful arrest. He has now been awarded £10,000.

He said: “It was a joke of an arrest. I was expecting Jeremy Beadle to step out at any point.”

Cumbria Police have still not done the decent thing and apologised to him. What a bunch of chickens.

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From buying pet fish to cleaning a chihuahua’s teeth – your pet queries answered

HE is on a mission to help our pets  . . . and is here to answer YOUR questions.

Sean, who is the head vet at tailored pet food firm tails.com, has helped with owners’ queries for ten years.

a little girl looking at a fish tank with a fish sticking out of it
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Sean helps a reader who is thinking about buying pet fish[/caption]
a man wearing a camo sweater is smiling and holding binoculars
Sean McCormack, head vet at tails.com, promises he can ‘help keep pets happy and healthy’

He says: “If your pet is acting funny or is under the weather, or you want to know about nutrition or exercise, just ask. I can help keep pets happy and healthy.”

Q) I AM thinking of getting some fish for my ten-year-old son Toby to get him interested in wildlife.

What size do you think is a good starter tank and what fish do you recommend?

Mark Castle, Birmingham

A) Buy as big as you can afford, with an appropriate size filter.

Your local aquatics store can advise, and it’s worth finding one dedicated to fish only as they will be able to give you time and expertise.

I always say that you are not keeping fish, you are keeping water.

Water quality is key, and it’s a fine balance between the amount of water, the number of fish and the capacity of the filtration.

Food in means poop out, and if there is too much food there will be too much of the end product polluting the water and causing issues.

A small freshwater tropical aquarium will cost a fair initial outlay, with weekly maintenance needed.

So it’s not a small commitment, but will provide hours of fascination and wonder. I’m still mesmerised by mine.

Q) MY chihuahua Sally hates me cleaning her teeth.

She just won’t have it and runs away. It’s such a struggle.

I have tried all kinds of different flavoured toothpaste, but her breath is a bit stinky.

Are those chews that are designed to clean teeth the real deal? And can I just use them instead of brushing?

Dominic McGrath, Glasgow

A) Firstly, well done for trying.

This is something many pet owners never get around to and, without cleaning, it’s inevitable your dog will need dental work sooner or later.

Some dogs tolerate brushing very well, others hate it and never come around.

The trick is to start slow and for short periods, gradually building up the time you ask them to tolerate it.

It’s also important to say some breeds are more prone to dental disease, mainly our toy breeds, ­chihuahuas and Yorkshire terriers in particular.

Taking Sally to the vet for an annual check-up is important.

And it’s likely, even with brushing, that she will need a proper dental cleaning under anaesthetic every few years.

Q) AS a pup, my eight-year-old German shepherd had a good hip score.

But for the last six months, Bear’s back legs have become weak.

He is not in any pain and still runs around full of enthusiasm, but he’s a farm dog who has never been in a car and I don’t want to stress him out by taking him to a vet.

Is this just an age thing that is typical of the breed?

Is there anything I can do to help this matter?

Sally Hansard, Gainsborough, Lincs

A) I can’t really help you here. Not taking him to the vet for a potential issue that could have lifelong complications isn’t really in Bear’s best interests.

Any stress involved will be outweighed by the knowledge and advice gained by finding out what is actually wrong with him and how best to manage it going forward.

Q) I WANT to have a wildlife pond in my garden, but is it right you shouldn’t put koi or goldfish in it?

Ideally, I’d like both. What do you think?

Bruce Taylor, Cardiff

A) You definitely need to choose one or the other.

Goldfish and koi are not compatible with wildlife.

They will eat most creatures in the pond that provide important food for other native wildlife.

Star of the week

RESCUE cat Marley has been crowned the UK’s most loving moggy for comforting trafficked women.

He beat thousands to the Cat of the Year title at the Cats Protection awards, where he met TV presenter and writer Dawn O’Porter.

a black and white cat sits on a green table
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Rescue cat Marley has been crowned the UK’s most loving moggy for comforting trafficked women[/caption]

The seven-year-old soothes guests at the London safe house, giving out cuddles and posing during art therapy sessions.

Karen Anstiss, 59, head of Caritas Bakhita House, currently home to 11 women from 11 countries, said: “Marley is a wonderful example of the power of love.

“Often, him placing a paw on our guests’ legs is the first kindness they’ve experienced in years.

“Before he went into rescue, he’d had a hard time, so he recognises our guests’ trauma.”

WIN: Dog training

WOULD you love a calmer and more relaxed life with your dog?

Win one year of Pup Talk The Pack online dog training membership worth £360.

It includes easy training videos and support from Niki French, author of best-selling book STOP! Walking Your Dog.

To enter, send an email marked PUPTALK to sundaypets@the-sun.co.uk by Nov 3.

See puptalk.co.uk.

T&Cs apply.

Learn what makes your pooch tick

DOG owners should carry out personality tests on their pets so they can mix with like-minded mutts.

Pet psychology expert Heather Stevens says your best friend can find their own BFF if you follow her tips.

a woman in a blue jacket is sitting on a tree stump with two dogs
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Heather Stevens says your best friend can find their own BFF if you follow her tips[/caption]

The trainer and author of Beyond The Breed: The New Way To Know And Understand Your Dog believes that pinpointing a canine’s character makes for a happy pet and owner.

Heather, who also runs doggy day care, began studying canine characteristics to ensure her clients got along smoothly.

She says: “Identifying the character of your dog helps with training and understanding how they see the world.

“Owners feel more empowered when they know a little more about what’s really going on with their dogs.”

Heather, 68, from Richmond, North Yorks, adds: “It explains why two dogs from the same litter can be so different and why they may be best friends with one black labrador, but terrified of another that looks exactly the same.

“I wrote the book to help people develop a deeper emotional understanding of their dogs so they can really grasp what’s happening when it comes to their behaviour.”

Learn more about Heather’s work and training tips, and buy her book, at beyondthebreed.co.uk.

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From switching banks to benefits, how to give your wallet a winter workout and claw back £200 before Christmas

IT is called the most wonderful time of the year, but Christmas is less good for your wallet.

Families can spend up to £1,800 on the big day, says MoneySuperMarket.

a woman sits at a table with a laptop and a candle in front of her
Here’s how to find some extra cash before Christmas

So before the expenses begin, now is a good time to review your finances and see where savings can be made.

Amy Knight, from personal finance website NerdWallet, says: “Decluttering your monthly outgoings provides a clear picture of how much disposable income you have, vital for the savvy shopper.”

Harriet Cooke draws up a checklist guide to finding some extra cash before December 25.

REVIEW BILLS

EXTRA CASH: £12

a woman in a yellow sweater sits on a couch holding a cell phone and a piece of paper
Switching now could save you around £12 before Christmas

CHECKING what you spend on energy, broadband and mobiles and switching to a cheaper deal, if you can, will immediately ease your monthly outgoings.

With the energy price cap having just risen by ten per cent to £1,717 a year for the average house, it’s especially important to look at your fuel tariff.

Switching to a competitive deal, such as EDF’s new Essentials V8, would mean a typical household would pay £1,628 over the year, saving around £89 on a variable tariff.

Switching now could save you around £15 before Christmas, and if your old account is in credit, you can get a rebate from your supplier.

Use a price comparison site such as Uswitch or Compare The Market to see how much you could save, as British Gas and E.on Next are also offering rates around four to five per cent cheaper than the cap. If you are not keen on computers, ring your supplier.

The same goes for your broadband and mobile phone provider. Give them a call and ask if your fixed deal has ended. If it has, discuss switching to a cheaper one that provides an equivalent service.

SELL STUFF

EXTRA CASH: AROUND £100

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The best option is often posting locally on Facebook’s Marketplace[/caption]

THE months before Christmas are the perfect time to declutter to make way for new gifts.

Vlatka Lake, from self-storage company Space Station, says some of the most wanted second-hand items include golf clubs, selling for an average £100 on eBay, phones, clothes, which bring in £30 a piece, bikes at £270 and watches for £170.

The best option is often posting locally on Facebook’s Marketplace, so local buyers can collect the item.

Or you can list goods on sites such as eBay or Vinted, which is great for second-hand clothes. But you will usually have to post what you sell.

If this sounds like too much, enlist the help of a trusted tech-savvy friend or child, and split the proceeds with them.

SWITCH BANKS

EXTRA CASH: £200

the outside of a nationwide building society store
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Nationwide are currently offering £175 to customers switching to their 1st or FlexDirect accounts[/caption]

ONE of the easiest ways to get some extra cash is by switching current accounts — and your new bank will do all the work for you.

First Direct and Nationwide are currently offering £175 to customers switching to their 1st or FlexDirect accounts, respectively, while Lloyds is offering £200 for moving to Club Lloyds.

Aside from the bonuses, which will be paid by Christmas, all have different perks.

The First Direct account offers a £250 interest-free overdraft, which is great if you are often in the red.

Nationwide gives up to 5 per cent interest on £1,500 for 12 months, with 1 per cent cashback on debit card spending.

Club Lloyds has a £3 fee unless you pay in at least £2,000 a month, and offers a choice of either 12 months of Disney+, six cinema tickets, a Coffee Club & Gourmet Society membership, or a subscription to a magazine such as Good Housekeeping.

SELL CURRENCY

EXTRA CASH: AROUND £53

a pile of money including a 100 euro bill
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Exchange your leftover foreign currency for an average of £53[/caption]

TRAVELLERS returning from abroad have an average of £53 of leftover foreign currency, according to Tesco Bank.

Ban Mahsoub, from the bank, said: “This could be exchanged back into sterling and provide a welcome boost for any Christmas savings.”

Try the Travel Money Max tool at moneysavingexpert.com to find out which bureau offers the best rate of conversion.

This week, Currency Online Group will give £82.65 for 100 euros, whereas Waitrose will pay £76.13.

CHECK BENEFITS

EXTRA CASH: VARIES

ARE you getting all the government help you are entitled to? Check at turn2us.org.uk.

To apply for Pension Credit — which pays an average £75 a week — call 0800 99 1234 or visit gov.uk/pension-credit/how-to-claim.

‘We split earnings which is great for doing no work’

LIFESTYLE coach Caroline Lamont, 48, from West London, made some extra cash by enlisting the help of a school mum friend to sell her unwanted clothing.

She said: “I do sell old clothes on Vinted but it takes time to list them, label them and drop them off, and you also get buyers trying to negotiate the price. It doesn’t always feel worth it.

“For more expensive clothes that I don’t want any more, I’ll pass them to my friend who runs a pre-loved pop-up shop, as she can get a higher price for them.

“She sold my old Maje raincoat for £100, which I’ve had for about six years but never really worn. And also a ten-year-old pair of All Saints leather trousers for £70.

“We split the earnings in half, which is great for doing no work. Having a savvy friend to help is great if you don’t like selling or don’t have time.”

Amex users frozen out

two american express cards on a wooden table
Many have been unable to use their American Express credit cards, which have been frozen

A MAJOR credit card company has been inundated with calls from customers after mystery payments appeared on their accounts.

American Express users said they could not get through to its helpline to query the amounts earlier this week. Others said they could not resolve the issue with the company’s live chat.

Many have been unable to use their credit cards, which have been frozen. Among those affected is Terry Pierce, 37. The company director, from London, was travelling for work when he began to receive texts asking him to approve transactions he had not made.

Four payments totalling £18.92 were taken from his British Airways American Express Premium Plus Card. When the father-of-one tried to contact American Express, he was left on hold for four hours.

He said: “It’s been so much additional stress. My card is frozen so I can’t use it. I have no idea of the source of these transactions.” We asked Amex about its helpline issues and if it was aware of a bigger issue.

A spokesperson said: “Our specialist fraud team thoroughly investigates all fraud claims and American Express members are not liable for this kind of unauthorised charge.”

It is understood that Amex has added extra resources to its call centre to reduce wait times.

If you think your credit card has been compromised then call your bank so it can freeze your card.

Usually you will be reimbursed for charges you have not made.

By Adelle Cook

Homes face winter bite

NINE million households have not got any credit built up on their energy accounts ahead of the winter months, research has found.

The study, carried out by USwitch, revealed that this is a slight improvement on last year though.

Fifty-nine per cent of homes do have a credit balance, averaging £220, which is slightly down from £236 last autumn.

The study also found that 11 per cent of homes with an income of less than £20,000 already owe money to their energy provider.

Those in debt owe around £163 on average. Typically, customers build up credit during the less expensive summer months in preparation for using more energy over the winter.

Average household energy debt has fallen by 17 per cent from £216 to £179. Despite this, the average account balance is at a three-year low of £128.

Ahead of the autumn Budget on October 30, USwitch is calling on the Government to consider what more can be done to protect vulnerable consumers this winter.

Richard Neudegg, director of regulation at Uswitch, said: “Households use more energy over the winter, so for the majority paying via direct debit it’s ideal to have a cushion of about two months’ worth of energy credit at this point in the year.

“If your energy account is going into debt or you are behind on your bill payments, speak to your supplier as soon as possible.”

By Ellie Smitherman

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Winter sun European island with 21C sunshine has donkey sanctuaries, waterfall trails and huge new resorts

AS Britain shivered, I was wandering along a sandy beach in Cyprus in dazzling 21C sunshine.

At the water’s edge, a family relaxed on sunloungers while a man struck yoga poses.

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2023 Adam Batterbee. All rights reserved.
Try a spot of yoga on the beach at Larnaca[/caption]
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2023 Adam Batterbee. All rights reserved.
The funky new Rise Street Art Hotel[/caption]
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Make some new friends at Golden Donkeys Farm, one of Europe’s biggest sanctuaries for the animals[/caption]

And even in winter, the water was warm enough for a dip.

Summer party hot spot Ayia Napa may be slumbering until the spring, but lovely Larnaca, just 40 minutes away, continues to welcome a more relaxed traveller in the depths of winter.

That was my cue to discover just how much there is to do out of season on this Mediterranean island — and brighten up an otherwise dreary winter.

Food would play a starring role — and I was about to go meze mad.

First up was Larnaca itself, where the new Rise Street Art Hotel has brought a fantastic funkiness to the city.

Street art is everywhere in this place, from the fabulous facade to the rooms and the rooftop bar, where guests get a free welcome drink.

It is a handy base for exploring the city’s Finikoudes Beach and its palm-shaded promenade, where Militzis Restaurant tempted me with its lavish meze.

Appetisers of creamy tahini dip, tzatziki and salad topped with halloumi set me up for kleftiko (slow-cooked lamb), grilled chicken and pork souvlaki.

These are all dishes I’ve had many times before, but there’s something very appealing about eating authentic Cypriot food by the sea on the island itself.

It was an enticing taste of things to come.

After a nose around Larnaca’s food market and the colourful streets of the old town, I headed off to the village of Skarinou near the foothills of the Troodos Mountains.

There, I was given a masterclass in how to make halloumi, the “squeaky” cheese from Cyprus.

It is now found all around the world — but this stuff was the real deal, and bursting with intense flavour.

It was one of the activities offered by Golden Donkeys Farm, one of Europe’s biggest sanctuaries for the animals — and one of the cutest places I’ve ever seen.

It was hard not to go gaga over these gorgeous beasts, along with adorable baby goats and their mothers, whose milk is used for that wonderful halloumi.

The milk from the donkeys, meanwhile, goes into products in the farm’s shop, from face creams to a lovely liqueur rather like Baileys.

There was a quick stop at the Neolithic settlement of Choirokoitia, whose ruins date back to at least 7,000BC, before heading to lunch at Dragon Nest in the village of Pentakomo.

Before I could say the word meze, I had plates of tahini dip (my new addiction), moreish courgette patties and possibly the best kleftiko in Cyprus laid in front of me.

I was going to need all that protein for a hike the following morning after recharging my energy at the cosy Petit Palais Boutique Hotel in the village of ­Platres.

Set in the Troodos Mountains, the village has an almost Alpine feeling and is a great starting point for some exhilarating hikes.

Autumnal forests

My goal was the Caledonian Waterfall Walking Trail.

This two-hour hike took me through autumnal forests and past waterfalls and rushing streams — with a few tricky log bridges and stepping stones to keep me on my toes.

Here in the Troodos range, I was discovering a different side of Cyprus.

And when I arrived in Marathasa Winery, high above the village of Oikos, I thought I had landed in a James Bond lair.

Perched on a hilltop, the ultra-modern winery and bar features huge windows that give fantastic views of the surrounding mountains and villages below.

It was an enchanting place to try exceptional local wines, including the crisp white xynisteri, which quickly became a favourite.

a table topped with plates of food including rice and meat
2023 Adam Batterbee. All rights reserved.
Tuck into delicious local food[/caption]
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Take a trek on the scenic Caledonian Trail

The winery’s owner, John Papadouris, has brought abandoned vineyards back to life, but didn’t stop there.

He has also rejuvenated parts of the neighbouring village of Kalopanayiotis, including Casale Panayiotis Traditional Village Hotel & Spa.

Its Byzantino restaurant has another winning meze, this time with tomato and vegetable fritters and slow-cooked rabbit added to the mix.

Afterwards, I wandered round Kalopanayiotis’s pretty lanes, breathing in scents of mulled wine from the food stalls in the glittering festive market, one of the isle’s seven official Christmas Villages that run from late November till mid-January.

Soon, though, it was time to head back to the coast, and Cyprus’s second-largest city, Limassol.

The recently-opened five-star City of Dreams Mediterranean, near Lady’s Mile Beach, offers 500 stylish rooms and a huge casino alongside excellent restaurants, a spa and a massive pool complex with an adventure park, waterslides and wave pool.

Enchanting place

Some of the outdoor pools close for the winter, but not the Beach Pool, which is surrounded by sand and loungers for lazy days in the sun.

There was still Limassol to explore, especially its buzzing Old Town with lanes filled with bars, restaurants, outdoor terraces and people enjoying the mild evening air.

It was the perfect place for a stroll after another mega Med meze — this time a seafood extravaganza at Afxentis Fish Restaurant. Dish after dish arrived — calamari, prawns, mussels, octopus, sea bream, red mullet. All divine.

Sea, sunshine, superb food, Cypriot hospitality and beautiful landscapes — all I needed for a blissful winter escape.

GO: Cyprus

GETTING THERE: Fly to Larnaca or Paphos with easyJet, Jet2, Wizzair or British Airways from £31.99 one way.

If you have an early-morning flight, see holidayextras.com for airport parking, hotels, lounges and transfers.

STAYING THERE: Doubles with including breakfast are from £82 per night at Rise Street Art Hotel, Larnaca (therisehotel.com), from £117 at Petit Palais Boutique Hotel in Platres (petitpalais.com.cy), and from £218 at City of Dreams Mediterranean in Limassol (cityofdreamsmed.com.cy).

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